I have a craftsman 42" with the 19.5 twin briggs & stratton i/c platinum . I am a little familiar with a regular style carb. with float, needle,jet . This mower will only start and run with choke fully on . It surges/fluctuates up and down . On other types of carbs. with these symptoms i could usually drop bowl clean jet and everything and usually be ok. I dont get this carb. setup.....i see no bowl to access jet or anything. Carb. sets flat on intake. i did replace diaphragm on front, cleaned tank,replaced fuel filter.Help!!!! Where do i begin
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Fuel Little help please
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New A21A42 - won't start while I'm sitting on it...
I recently purchased an Ariens A21A42 mower with a 19HP Briggs and Stratton engine. It seems to only start when I am not seated on the seat. I understand there's a presence sensor, but it won't even crank when I'm sitting on it and try to start.
I can only start the engine when I'm not sitting on it and using my foot to push down the brake entirely, but then if I release the brake before I am sitting on the seat it stalls out.
Anyone have any advice??
I can only start the engine when I'm not sitting on it and using my foot to push down the brake entirely, but then if I release the brake before I am sitting on the seat it stalls out.
Anyone have any advice??
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Spindles on 48" tiger cub
I have a 2003 scag tiger cub, 48" cut with 800+ hrs. Have recently noticed a chattering/clattering sound while deck is engaged. Cutting performance is great, have checked all deck components and all seems ok. What sounds are made by failing spindles?
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MOWER LEAVES A STRIPE DOWN THE MIDDLE
I AM TRYING TO HELP MY SON WITH HIS SIMPLICITY REGENT 17 HP 40" DECK. iT LEAVES A STRIPE DOWN THE MIDDLE WHEN CUTTING. THE BLADES ARE NEW IJUST PUT THEM ON THEY ARE THE EXACT ONES THAT WERE ON IT BUT THOUGHT I WOULD TRY. I MEASURED THE OVERLAP AS THEY ARE A TIMED BLADE AND THEY OVER LAP BY ABOUT 1". ANY IDEAS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
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Am new here
Am new to this site...just here to say hello and check out info. on scag spindles.
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help! , this is driving me crazy
Yes i have a 402437 16 horse opposed twin briggs engine on my snapper , a few weeks ago oil started shooting out of the #1 cylinder breather tube but engine was running good , i took the pto off and realized the shaft oil seal was pushed in so i replaced it, get everything back together and it fires up no oil shooting out but gas is coming out the top hole in the carb, so today i rebuilt the car and fuel pump and its still doing it, the float bowl has no leaks and the needle is seated, i tried adjusting float height but still nothing, what is causing this? It runs for about 20 seconds then it starts doing it
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Steering issue...
I posted earlier in the week about my steering issue. After taking it apart, I think the problem is obvious. As you can see in the pictures I've attached, the axle on one side is bent back (marked as (1). I believe this is because the rod/bar that goes across (marked as (2), is bent. This appears to be the obvious problem. What is this part called? I also had a starting issue and thanks to the people who took the time to respond to my post, the issue has been resolved. It was the valve clearance that needed to be adjusted. I did that myself and all is good with starting. Just need to get the part for the steering and I'm all good.
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Kubota ZD 25 Cleaning parts after mowing
After mowing grass and cleaning the radiator screen and panel screen, I find that I am unable to reinstall the panel
screen. (this is the large box with a built-in handle to remove). It looks simple to install in the grooves provided but it won't budge. Since it has to be removed on regular basis for cleaning, I don't want to force it.
screen. (this is the large box with a built-in handle to remove). It looks simple to install in the grooves provided but it won't budge. Since it has to be removed on regular basis for cleaning, I don't want to force it.
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KillRbee18 Intro
To all,
Hi all! I just wanted to drop a few lines about myself. For starters, I am a 47 year old male. I enjoy shooting weapons, military (25 years and going), working and hanging out with the family. So why am I here? For some strange reason, I got the interest bug in rebuilding lawn mowers. In the past, I would use them till they no longer ran and then I would send them off to the recycle center for disposal. But now, I want to take the time and see if I can fix mine and keep it running. As you all know, when you have a machine that you know like the back of your hand; you're more prompt to wanting to use it than a brand new one that you don't have a clue with and that is why I am here; hoping someone out there can give me some good sound advice. So this is what I have -- a MTD 21" cut blade with a 4.5 HP push-mower.
Hi all! I just wanted to drop a few lines about myself. For starters, I am a 47 year old male. I enjoy shooting weapons, military (25 years and going), working and hanging out with the family. So why am I here? For some strange reason, I got the interest bug in rebuilding lawn mowers. In the past, I would use them till they no longer ran and then I would send them off to the recycle center for disposal. But now, I want to take the time and see if I can fix mine and keep it running. As you all know, when you have a machine that you know like the back of your hand; you're more prompt to wanting to use it than a brand new one that you don't have a clue with and that is why I am here; hoping someone out there can give me some good sound advice. So this is what I have -- a MTD 21" cut blade with a 4.5 HP push-mower.
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Need some suggestions or help -- PLEASE
To All,
I have a 21 MTD 4.5 Briggs and Stratton push lawn mower. The reason why I am on here is there is something wrong with my mower. She (meaning the lawn mower) fires up every time, but I have notice that the noise from the machine fades in and out (in and out power). It seems to cut okay but the fading is bothering me; not to mention the motor is semi shaking / rattling (a hard vibration). So how did all of this come around? In the past I have ran over rocks and hard objects but just a few days ago I was mowing and I accidentally ran over a huge rut in my yard. The mower made large clingy noises and a high pitch noise from the motor; eventually the noise kind have went back to normal but now it is fading in and out (like it wants to cut out). From this cock-a-mane story can anyone tell me what they think might this be? All suggestions are welcomed!
I have a 21 MTD 4.5 Briggs and Stratton push lawn mower. The reason why I am on here is there is something wrong with my mower. She (meaning the lawn mower) fires up every time, but I have notice that the noise from the machine fades in and out (in and out power). It seems to cut okay but the fading is bothering me; not to mention the motor is semi shaking / rattling (a hard vibration). So how did all of this come around? In the past I have ran over rocks and hard objects but just a few days ago I was mowing and I accidentally ran over a huge rut in my yard. The mower made large clingy noises and a high pitch noise from the motor; eventually the noise kind have went back to normal but now it is fading in and out (like it wants to cut out). From this cock-a-mane story can anyone tell me what they think might this be? All suggestions are welcomed!
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Mower deck Keep breaking belt
Craftsman Lawn Tractor 917.270514 keeps breaking the blade belt. I didnt buy it new and im thinking maybe a Spindle has gone bad? Not sure how to tell if thats the case tho. Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!:smile:
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For those in the repair business only: When are "The Brands" going to get with 2015??
I find this totally odd and unrealistic. Companies such as Briggs and Stratton and John Deere feel their technical/service manuals are only to be procured by secret handshake and becoming a certified dealer.
Some of these companies use Persona for ordering parts. OMG are you kidding?!? This technology is what Bill Gates used for his sixth grade science project. I've spoken to the reps at one source and they say "it's not that bad once you get used to it". Really? I have lots of jobs to do, and figuring out the MSDOS system of the 80's is not one of them.
In the modern age we have the internet. Where really, nothing is sacred or secret. Whether it's Jon Q Public, or a guy fixing the neighbors mowers in his back yard, make the information available.
I think Kohler has made the wise move to make all their manuals public.
I know some may think that this old thinking safeguards those in the business. But I can't disagree more. If you haven't noticed, all the independent shops are fading away. The old timers are packing it in, calling it quits, and taking all their years of knowledge with them. Does this mean more business for the dealers. Perhaps, but if a customer owns a Craftsman they get to play patty-cake with whatever kid is driving the repair truck that day. Nobody wins there.
Which leads me to the dealers. They normally only service what they have factory support for. This leaves a massive hole for a customer if they own something older or without local support (i.e. white outdoor equipment or an old Dixon).
Maybe I'm wrong on this, but there will always be PLENTY of work for everybody and anybody that wants to jump into the trade. If JD, B&S and Stihl for that matter, lighten up on the service manual info this will help the average homeowner's reassurance that even if you can't find a local dealer "the factory" is open for parts sales if you elect to proceed on your own.
You may have a difference of opinion, but who is lined up to take over your shop when you get out??
Some of these companies use Persona for ordering parts. OMG are you kidding?!? This technology is what Bill Gates used for his sixth grade science project. I've spoken to the reps at one source and they say "it's not that bad once you get used to it". Really? I have lots of jobs to do, and figuring out the MSDOS system of the 80's is not one of them.
In the modern age we have the internet. Where really, nothing is sacred or secret. Whether it's Jon Q Public, or a guy fixing the neighbors mowers in his back yard, make the information available.
I think Kohler has made the wise move to make all their manuals public.
I know some may think that this old thinking safeguards those in the business. But I can't disagree more. If you haven't noticed, all the independent shops are fading away. The old timers are packing it in, calling it quits, and taking all their years of knowledge with them. Does this mean more business for the dealers. Perhaps, but if a customer owns a Craftsman they get to play patty-cake with whatever kid is driving the repair truck that day. Nobody wins there.
Which leads me to the dealers. They normally only service what they have factory support for. This leaves a massive hole for a customer if they own something older or without local support (i.e. white outdoor equipment or an old Dixon).
Maybe I'm wrong on this, but there will always be PLENTY of work for everybody and anybody that wants to jump into the trade. If JD, B&S and Stihl for that matter, lighten up on the service manual info this will help the average homeowner's reassurance that even if you can't find a local dealer "the factory" is open for parts sales if you elect to proceed on your own.
You may have a difference of opinion, but who is lined up to take over your shop when you get out??
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Ferris Dual Drive 48 wont start.
Ok so we pull up to our last house on Monday to mow. We try to start the mower and it will not start. It sounds like it wants to and nothing. Machine has spark and compression. Fuel is getting to the carb and the carb has suction. Not sure what else to try. Occasionally when we try to start it will have a pop come out the Carb. I am not sure if this could be a fly wheel problem or not. When we pull the cord to try and start it pulls kind of hard. It has the Kawaski FC420V engine on it and the model # is DDSKA 1579. Any help would be appreciated.
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Repairs NEW TRACTION DRIVE CABLE REPLACEMENT ON 14SB MOWER IS TOO LONG (GX21634)
I am trying to replace the original traction drive cable (AM106051) which has been replaced by GX21634. The new cable is too long and does not seem to fit.
I cannot find anything that addresses this problem on the internet or John Deere DTAC. Has anyone else come across this situation?
I cannot find anything that addresses this problem on the internet or John Deere DTAC. Has anyone else come across this situation?
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yard cruiser smokes sometimes
snapper Z rider, yard cruiser. 14.5 hp B&S. It runs great but it has got where it smokes on and off. lite blue smoke. Can be running along and it will start smoking for a couple of mins. then stop smoking then it does it again. thanks Joe.
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Fuel rtz 50 zero turn engine cuts out????
I HAVE A RTZ 50 ZERO TURN FROM 2007 SO IT STARTS UP RUNS GREAT FOR ABOUT 10 MINS THEN CUTS OFF LIKE IT RAN OUT OF GAS BUT STILL HAS GAS IN THE TANK IT WILL TURN OVER AND START BUT WILL NOT STAY ON. IF I LET IT SIT FOR A DAY IT WILL DO THE SAME THING. SO DO U THING i NEED A NEW PUMP OR I HEARD OF FUEL LINES SWELLING UP.
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Honda 3813 tractor how do you grease mower deck spindels.
Hi I have a Honda 3813 tractor . I do not have an owners manual. I've looked but don't see any zurk fittings on the upper portion of the deck spindels . Any buddy out there have experince with these? Also when you put the mower in gear it pauses for about 10 seconds before it moves , any adustments to be made here? Thanks to all
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Looking for replacement engine for personal pace mower
Hello all, I have a Toro personal pace mower with a Tecumseh 6 hp engine. I need a replacement engine. Will any Briggs engines fit? i'm not a huge fan of Tecumseh engines. thanks
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roto tiller tine question
Hi guys... not sure if this is the right forum... but I know you guys know a bunch...
I've got an old (1977) Sears roto tiller... hasn't run in a few years but with a few new parts it's purring again... the transmission and all works fine... it's been sitting in the yard for years with a plastic tub over the engine and the rest exposed to the weather... the tines look a little rough and next chore is cleaning them up...
my question is.... can or should the tines be sharpened... got the tools to do it... just wondering if they are hardened or is there some reason to put a good clean sharp edge on them ???
thanks
John
I've got an old (1977) Sears roto tiller... hasn't run in a few years but with a few new parts it's purring again... the transmission and all works fine... it's been sitting in the yard for years with a plastic tub over the engine and the rest exposed to the weather... the tines look a little rough and next chore is cleaning them up...
my question is.... can or should the tines be sharpened... got the tools to do it... just wondering if they are hardened or is there some reason to put a good clean sharp edge on them ???
thanks
John
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New owner Toro Z-Master 6000 questions
With a lot of help from these forums, I finally purchased a replacement for my old John Deere 316, 48" deck with a pull behind lawn vac. I have a football field with 31 trees back yard, a nice sized side yard and a small front yard. (I don't know from acres) Mowing with the Deere took 4-5 hours and during the leaf season we spent a whole Saturday multiple times. Anything, including negative thoughts, jammed up the vac. I bought the 316 used in 1986. Nothing can kill it but I am the only one that works on it and it is getting torturous. I am going to mount the snow blower (northern Indiana) and retire it from mowing. The back yard is not real smooth and I have a slight decline from the walk out back door. The 316 and a few walk behind mowers are my entire mowing experience. This mower is the last one I wish to buy and will only be used for my house and hopefully some goodwill mowing for the neighbors.
I bought a used Toro Commercial Z-Master 6000 with a 60" Turbo-Force deck (only one set of trees is too narrow for that deck with the bagger) and the air cooled Kawasaki 25.5 hp engine. The real draw was the huge bagger with the self dump lever. I can't wait for fall. It has the propane conversion with 44 lb capacity which gave me serious concerns. I am old and most likely will only get weaker. So far (one tank change since I bought it Friday) changing the tank is doable but I am putting some mechanical means together to help tank changes and under deck service in the future. I decided to leave the propane since I hear it is better for longevity. The hour meter read 984 and was used to mow commercially residential lawns.
Hopefully I will get this entry right and I can get some knowledgeable answers from the group.
1. Thoughts on keeping the propane vs converting it back to gas? I plan on getting another tank as a full spare in case I run out when the two filling stations in town are closed. Can anyone tell me exactly the terminology on this tank in case I buy it on the internet or have to special order it? It is totally not the same as the other small tanks around here for various purposes.
2. I have a service manual but I was too anxious to open this thread to read it fully. I did skim it though, which is pretty good for me. My parking brake needs adjustment. It allows the mower to creep when set and roll on a slope when the unit is turned off. Any tips on adjustment?
3. I was told that they would sharpen the blades before I got it but my fingers do not think so, and the blades have some gouges. I ran the front up on some ramps and slid underneath. The deck had a lot of old grass buildup and the bolts on the blades did not look recently removed. Do pros sharpen while the blades are in place somehow? I read that the Toro blades need to be balanced (see, I did skim it!) so I don't want to just take them off and sharpen them if it is tricky. I can buy a blade balance I suppose, but maybe a pro would be the wise choice here. Advice? I always sharpened the 316 blades on a vertical sander, being sure to keep the blades cool. Should I still? The question is, is there a lock somewhere on that deck to allow me to remove the blades without the blades spinning or is there a trick? My old trick was a block of wood on the blades but I don't really want to take the deck off if I don't have to.
4. The tag numbers are 74925 311000279. Is there a link to a site to help me interpret what this means? I'd like to know more about it (like year built, exact model etc....). I think there is must be more descriptive than just 6000.
5. I see there are blades for different purposes. Is there something I should be looking for in leaf pick up blades? I have a LOT of leaves.
6. Does the bagger have a full warning system? I have no idea when to dump. Love it so far! Back into the forest, pull the lever and drive slightly forward, return the handle and go looking for more grass. My back and shoulders are VERY grateful! Can mow in my good tennis shoes now.
7. The 316 paid for a lot of my ignorance the first few years. Is there anything that more experienced people like yourselves can tell me to help me do a better job of driving, mowing, maintaining or just plain enjoying such a beautiful machine?
8. Is there more I should add when posting a description? I will add a picture when I figure out how.
Now for the fun part. Friday evening brought it home. Drove it around without mowing. I did my best to repair the scratch to my sons Volvo this morning. Saturday morning mowed the side yard very slowly, learned some about driving. The only neighbor with grass long enough and lots of trees was down the street so I practiced on his lawn first thing. Probably should have asked him first but he hates to mow and I have done it with the Deere before without violence. Long wet grass cut just fine, clumped a bit, as I forgot to check the chute and it stuck. Used to have to lay on my back, reach up into the catcher down on the deck and try to find the twig stopping the flow. Now I just release the catch, standing up by the side of the Toro. My bandage costs will go WAY down. Learned how to go around trees and found the point where the trees would catch the bagger if I forgot rear swing-out. Decided to tackle the back yard. Used to take about 3 - 4 hours MINIMUM with the 316. Knowing I was going to replace it, I recently did the lawn never taking the throttle from full open. Both of us took a beating (bruises all along the back of my thighs but nothing fell off the Deere or the vac. Tough little sucker!) but got it done in one hour and 45 minutes. This morning (Sunday) did it with the Toro, relatively sedately in 37 minutes. Slope was scary at first. Even with the weights up front I popped a few small wheelies. Made some divots in a few turns but mostly kept the wheels turning.There is no place to go up a leveler slope and mow back down so I mowed both ways. With the bagger and mower on, at higher speeds the motor slowed noticeably going up the slope. I am learning our limits. One of which is a raised spot over a tree root that took us airborne. Man that seat is nice! While kinda fun (off road jeep fanatic) THAT will never happen again! Confidence finally high enough, I mowed the front lawn and the landscaping survived. Only a couple of skinned places from the turns.
Now I am stuck. Literally watching the grass grow and nothing more to mow. I am known throughout the family as the most serious hater of mowing. Now I am praying for rain! Think I will see what mods I have to make to my little trailer to load and carry the beast. There must be some relative somewhere with taller grass.
Any tips or comments would be very welcome. Hope I got the thread right and didn't waste too much of anyone's time reading. I am just very excited about this. Wanted one for five years since I saw a big John Deere Zero Turn at the dealer. Have been looking all over for about four months and got exactly the one I wanted. I thought it would end up being an Ex-Mark in the garage but loved this Toro at first sight.
Thanks for reading.
I bought a used Toro Commercial Z-Master 6000 with a 60" Turbo-Force deck (only one set of trees is too narrow for that deck with the bagger) and the air cooled Kawasaki 25.5 hp engine. The real draw was the huge bagger with the self dump lever. I can't wait for fall. It has the propane conversion with 44 lb capacity which gave me serious concerns. I am old and most likely will only get weaker. So far (one tank change since I bought it Friday) changing the tank is doable but I am putting some mechanical means together to help tank changes and under deck service in the future. I decided to leave the propane since I hear it is better for longevity. The hour meter read 984 and was used to mow commercially residential lawns.
Hopefully I will get this entry right and I can get some knowledgeable answers from the group.
1. Thoughts on keeping the propane vs converting it back to gas? I plan on getting another tank as a full spare in case I run out when the two filling stations in town are closed. Can anyone tell me exactly the terminology on this tank in case I buy it on the internet or have to special order it? It is totally not the same as the other small tanks around here for various purposes.
2. I have a service manual but I was too anxious to open this thread to read it fully. I did skim it though, which is pretty good for me. My parking brake needs adjustment. It allows the mower to creep when set and roll on a slope when the unit is turned off. Any tips on adjustment?
3. I was told that they would sharpen the blades before I got it but my fingers do not think so, and the blades have some gouges. I ran the front up on some ramps and slid underneath. The deck had a lot of old grass buildup and the bolts on the blades did not look recently removed. Do pros sharpen while the blades are in place somehow? I read that the Toro blades need to be balanced (see, I did skim it!) so I don't want to just take them off and sharpen them if it is tricky. I can buy a blade balance I suppose, but maybe a pro would be the wise choice here. Advice? I always sharpened the 316 blades on a vertical sander, being sure to keep the blades cool. Should I still? The question is, is there a lock somewhere on that deck to allow me to remove the blades without the blades spinning or is there a trick? My old trick was a block of wood on the blades but I don't really want to take the deck off if I don't have to.
4. The tag numbers are 74925 311000279. Is there a link to a site to help me interpret what this means? I'd like to know more about it (like year built, exact model etc....). I think there is must be more descriptive than just 6000.
5. I see there are blades for different purposes. Is there something I should be looking for in leaf pick up blades? I have a LOT of leaves.
6. Does the bagger have a full warning system? I have no idea when to dump. Love it so far! Back into the forest, pull the lever and drive slightly forward, return the handle and go looking for more grass. My back and shoulders are VERY grateful! Can mow in my good tennis shoes now.
7. The 316 paid for a lot of my ignorance the first few years. Is there anything that more experienced people like yourselves can tell me to help me do a better job of driving, mowing, maintaining or just plain enjoying such a beautiful machine?
8. Is there more I should add when posting a description? I will add a picture when I figure out how.
Now for the fun part. Friday evening brought it home. Drove it around without mowing. I did my best to repair the scratch to my sons Volvo this morning. Saturday morning mowed the side yard very slowly, learned some about driving. The only neighbor with grass long enough and lots of trees was down the street so I practiced on his lawn first thing. Probably should have asked him first but he hates to mow and I have done it with the Deere before without violence. Long wet grass cut just fine, clumped a bit, as I forgot to check the chute and it stuck. Used to have to lay on my back, reach up into the catcher down on the deck and try to find the twig stopping the flow. Now I just release the catch, standing up by the side of the Toro. My bandage costs will go WAY down. Learned how to go around trees and found the point where the trees would catch the bagger if I forgot rear swing-out. Decided to tackle the back yard. Used to take about 3 - 4 hours MINIMUM with the 316. Knowing I was going to replace it, I recently did the lawn never taking the throttle from full open. Both of us took a beating (bruises all along the back of my thighs but nothing fell off the Deere or the vac. Tough little sucker!) but got it done in one hour and 45 minutes. This morning (Sunday) did it with the Toro, relatively sedately in 37 minutes. Slope was scary at first. Even with the weights up front I popped a few small wheelies. Made some divots in a few turns but mostly kept the wheels turning.There is no place to go up a leveler slope and mow back down so I mowed both ways. With the bagger and mower on, at higher speeds the motor slowed noticeably going up the slope. I am learning our limits. One of which is a raised spot over a tree root that took us airborne. Man that seat is nice! While kinda fun (off road jeep fanatic) THAT will never happen again! Confidence finally high enough, I mowed the front lawn and the landscaping survived. Only a couple of skinned places from the turns.
Now I am stuck. Literally watching the grass grow and nothing more to mow. I am known throughout the family as the most serious hater of mowing. Now I am praying for rain! Think I will see what mods I have to make to my little trailer to load and carry the beast. There must be some relative somewhere with taller grass.
Any tips or comments would be very welcome. Hope I got the thread right and didn't waste too much of anyone's time reading. I am just very excited about this. Wanted one for five years since I saw a big John Deere Zero Turn at the dealer. Have been looking all over for about four months and got exactly the one I wanted. I thought it would end up being an Ex-Mark in the garage but loved this Toro at first sight.
Thanks for reading.
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