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Craftsman 6.0

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It sat for a year and a half. The carb screw just needed some adjustment and she was running fine yesterday. Did my whole lawn with her then she ran out of gas. Filled her up with new fresh gas and now she won't start. If I spray starter fluid in the air cleaner hole she will start up for a second and then die.

- Changed oil since it hadn't been done for ages.
- Checked for spark and it is good.
- Took apart the carb and sprayed carb cleaner until it was coming out of every hole.
- Cleaned the jet on the bottom of the bowl completely.
- Soaked the whole carb in some carb cleaner in a bowl.

All fuel lines look OK as well.

What am I missing here? This is an older model Craftsman 6.0 with larger wheels in the back and I,believe Tecumseh motor. Tia.

Replacement for our 12HP Kohler engine in our Gravely 8123?

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What options are there to replace the original 12HP Kohler engine in our Gravely 8123 tractor?
This particular engine isn't made any more.

Oil filer cross over

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Are there any mower oil filters that cross over to automotive filter? I would think the thread pitch would be different. I get my oil filters (Hastings) for my vehicles at just under $3 and a B&S filter is $10-$12.:thumbdown:

Grammar seats

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I am looking for a grammar seat for my 325 Grasshopper any outlets or equivalent seats.

Replacing command with courage

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Hello
I have a Hustler super z and the engine blew. I have a used 25 hp kohler courage to replace the 27 command.
I'm having trouble with the wiring connections.I'm not sure about the colors.
The 27 command has 3 wires Green,White and red while the courage has several. Anyone have an idea?

2011 Craftsman 21hp 540cc Platinum XRD Briggs and Stratton OHV engine / Backfire

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Engine has been bullet proof / trouble-free up to now. Sudden loss of power; engine constantly backfiring through carburetor; over-rich exhaust with gas smell. Engine was running fine when this problem occurred. Changed spark plug; no help. Removed air filter, started engine. Constant loud rapid backfiring through carburetor; very loud.
Mower is Craftsman 42" cut model 917.289223. Engine family: 9BSXS.5402VB (Dec 2009 date of mfg). Researching carburetor solenoid as possible problem. Mower out of operation. Any ideas?

Model 1190-H

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I bought a fairly old machine in great shape. On;y 500 hours on it. I did come with the owner manuals but I can't seem to find anything of it anywhere else. I was wondering was it a higher end model or? Model #13AG618H595. Thanks

Repairs Troy-bilt 34360 Tuf Cut cutting height lever

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The cutting height lever on my Troy-bilt 34360 broke off relegating the deck to set on the ground and scalp. I have been unable to find a replacement for the broken part (I have found the plastic grip for the lever). The broken part appears to be part of the #1918224 rear axle assy. [mower is rear drive]. I did find lever #1917931 on another model, appears to be compatible but not sure. Anyone know how to break out cutting height lever / mechanism for #34360 and possible sources from which to obtain one? Most parts I have pursued for this model [built in 2000] are indicated as no longer available, including drive wheels #1765750, have had no luck with cross referencing MTD numbers. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

HELP! KAW 750D Stalling

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In a 2002 Scag Cougar. Now it is starting up easily, running for 2 minutes, then shutting down. But then it will start up again, right away, but run less time, 20, 30 seconds, and shut down. It will continue to do so. I have a new fuel filter, a year old fuel pump, new plugs, and the fuel lines look OK. Year old seat safety switch, and other safeties bypassed (I think I have all of them?). To me, It seems like a fuel pump may be the problem, because the first time it starts, it runs longer than the next consecutive starts. I thought maybe a relay?, so I will order one of those tomorrow (memorial day weekend today). I bought this mower new, and it has been garaged.

help start my riding mower

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mower refuses to start even used ether , cleaned plug. It was really close but stopped.help al:confused2:

Hustler Seized

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My father in law has a Hustler Mini Z with the Kawasaki motor. Yesterday while mowing the engine started smoking and making a horrible banging noise. I shut the mower down and upon checking the engine oil discovered it very low, and very nasty. I replaced the engine oil and put on a new oil filter and it ran fine after that. That is until today. I mowed around the property for about an hour today and then noticed a burning smell. I shut down the blades and looked at the engine and it was smoking a little. The oil filter was extremely hot and when it took the dipstick out of the oil reservoir smoke came from inside. I let it sit for an hour and went back to try it again. This time the motor is locked up! All it does is make a single "clank" when trying to start. I have no idea what to do now. Any help is much appreciated.

stihl chainsaw

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Hello, I am new to the site. I have been working on all kinds of small engine equipment for several years now and am usually able to figure out most problems.
I am working on a project now that has got me stumped. I am working on a Stihl 021 chainsaw for a friend. When he brought it to me it would start and run but would quickly overheat. At that time I checked compression (100psi) and it had good spark. I knew that 100 psi was on the low end so I checked the cylinder walls which were ok.
We decided to do a rebuild, my first try at this. I replaced the following parts: piston rings, oil seals, intake and exhaust gaskets, fuel line, and impulse line.
Now the saw will not start, not even fire And the compression is no better. Also I noticed there is no fuel being drawn from the fuel line to the carb when you disconnect it.
Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks

Air vane & shaft

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how do you adjust the air vane & shaft on a lawn boy 10323 ry 26520

HR 215-AB LEAKING OIL

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Ok while trying to blow air thru the fuel line back into the tank to clean out some trash. I accidently blew about 20 pounds of air into the intake line and hear a POP which I assume was a gasket of some sort. Now when running oil is leaking out and seems to be coming from some where around the top of the motor. That would be the top side of the motor as it sits horizontally on the deck I am not really sure where it is coming from. I pulled the valve cover and that gasket seems fine(plan on replacing it anyway). Any one have any ideas on what gaskets/seals I need to look at? I cant determine exactly where oil is coming from. I do know its not coming out from the bottom seal of the mower nor is it coming from the dip stick holder. The model number is MZAM-6038191 SXA*. Numbers in the valve cover are ZG9 HM 1.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

Starter Cord

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The starter cord finally gave out on my walk behind and I would like to get a replacement. Last time I replaced one, I was surprised at what I wound up with (no Pun intended)..... the replacement was really cheap.
Anyway.... I have a briggs mower and I need enough cord to go through the eyelet on the push handle so my Girl can start it too.
Can any body hook me up with some part numbers or a supplier..... amazon link would be great.
I found this one, and it looks to the strong enough, but I don't know if it's long enough.
Amazon.com : Briggs & Stratton 697316 Starter Rope Replacement for Models 692259 and 281464 : Lawn And Garden Tool Replacement Parts : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Thanks a lot for any insight you can provide.
It's summer here. and I need that thing operational by next weekend.

Zer turn or rider. Need advice and education

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I have about 1.2 acres of lawn. There are some hills and somewhat steep incline over a mound system and sides of the house (exposed basement). I currently have a cub cadet 1046 with a 46" deck that I got at a Home Depot. It's got about 200 hours on it. I cut once a week sometimes twice and it takes about 1.5 hours each time.

I am looking for something that cuts a little nicer, live in a neighborhood where most people have lawn services so the lawn has to look good or you stand out. I want to be proud of the work so to speak. My cub scrapes the top of the hills down to the dirt and it will fail at some point because it works hard on the hills and side hills.

I am looking for a 46" or 48" deck or 50" max. (Garage space). Should I be looking for a ZT or a lawn tractor ? Would like to cut down on the time I spend, get a better cut and something that can handle hills. I have a few trees but usually trim them with a weed whacker.

I have about $2600 to spend. Don't know about brands or the difference between a tractor or zero turn and what the strengths and weaknesses are of each. I have a JD, Toro dealer in town and can get most of the major brands. Lots of Lowes, HD and husky dealers around.

Can you help me decide?

MTD Yardman 139cc - Wouldn't start after cleaning the deck. Carb issues.

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I have a 139cc Yardman push mower that failed to start after I tipped it on it's side to clean the bottom deck.

At best it would start for a few minutes and then die. It's only a couple of years old and I thought I'd share my fix on this unit.

First I checked for spark by taking the plug out, grounding it against the case and spinning the engine with the starter rope. The little blue spark ensured me that my ignition was working so I checked the fuel out next

Take off the plastic top cover (4 screws) remove the air filter and remove the air filter housing (two nuts and a bolt). This will give you better access to the carb and will allow you to pinch off the fuel line with a pair of needle nose vise grips.

I took off the carb bowl with the 10mm wrench on the bottom. I momentarily unpinched the fuel line to allow fuel to the carb. I then moved the float up and down to make sure fuel was coming into the bowl and stopping when the float was pushed up. This all checked out.

I then decided to remove the carb and give it a good cleaning. To remove the carb, you need to disconnect the fuel line and two linkages. One linkage is for the automatic choke. That's the first butterfly valve you'll see when looking into the carb. To remove the choke linkage, I had to remove the plastic "flag" that serves as an automatic choke. To remove this from the engine, I had to remove the recoil (three bolts from the top) and the housing. Then I had to remove the magneto which gave me access to the bracket that held the "flag" to the mower. Once this is removed, you can easily remove the choke linkage.

The throttle linkage was much easier. Just rotate the plastic throttle arm on the carb to a position where you can lift off the linkage. The spring will also need to come off.

Now you can pull the carb off the two mounting studs and clean it.

I removed the float mechanism and checked to make sure everything was clean. Holding the carb upside down, I sprayed carb cleaner down the float jet and main jet. Let then soak for a bit and then blew them out. I then took a wire from a twist tie and pushed it through the jet passages to make sure they were clear.

Re-assemble the carb, attach the linkages and mount the carb. Attach fuel line. Re-assemble the magneto with .010 clearance. Attach blower housing, recoil unit and outer plastic housing.

Started first pull. There was obviously dirt (or varnish) somewhere in the carb. It's a bit of a chore to get the carb off the mower, you may be able to blow it out from the bottom without having to remove the carb from the mower.

Hope this helps someone. When I did a google search , I noticed others having the same problem with this mower and it most likely was a dirty carb. Apparently, these engines don't like bad (old) fuel and varnish in the carb is a problem. Not sure if my problem was dirt or varnish, but it was the carb.

craftsman Garden tractor 917.273021

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I have the above mentioned tractor it is a 1998 have replaced the Carb, fuel pump and all of the fuel line from the tank to the carb, all was bad. It will run if I spray carb cleaner in carb then will die. I am getting fuel in carb bowl but not it the through of carb for engine to run. Any advice will be nice almost at wits end on this.

Need Help

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I have a 17 hp B & S on a yardman mower. It is only firing on one cylinder. I've got spark, gas, and compression, but it won't hit. I've changed coils and plugs. I've checked keyway on flywheel thinking it may have jumped time. When you pull the spark plug out, you can see it is wet with gas. The fuel solenoid has been removed. Is it possible that one cylinder is getting too much gas? When it is running, it will occasionally backfire. Any suggestions?

Serial number

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Just purchased a Honda Model # HRR169vka. Can someone tell me why on my registration form that came in the owner's manual, the first part of the serial number is already typed in and you complete the rest, it is MZBZ. This is incorrect it is actually MZCG(This is part of the number on the mower). Is this a old registration form or do I have a lawn mower that don't match? Just concerned that maybe this is a rebuilt mower or a old one that has set in a warehouse for a while. Hope I made it clear what I'm asking.
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