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Model 113-011A (1983)

November 19, 2015, 4:02 pm
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Does anyone remember if the 1983 18" side-discharge model 113-011A (not to be confused with the original 113-011 which was sold in 1973) came with a Tecumseh AV520 85 cc 2-cycle engine like its predecessors? Like all 1983 (and later) model year mowers it had a blade-stopping device, this in the form of an "extended rope start" dead man's clutch.

The 113-020A was similar, but had the common Briggs & Stratton 92502 series 3 HP 4-cycle engine.

As far as I know, the 2-cycle engine model should read "AV520-653011M."

Mowers like this would have had the Lawnflite series name. 1983 also seems to be the only year the 2-cycle model (011) had the dead man clutch, while the 4-cycle version (020) continued up to 1989 (as 020R).

Please let me know what you remember.

Thank you,



Ben Edge
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Ethanol in gas

November 20, 2015, 4:36 pm
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Had my Echo pan pack blower survey for the first time since it would not run when squeezing the throttle. The shop said it was the ethanol in the regular gas that attracts water and then gums up the carburetor. His advice was to use high octane gas and it is only good for some 2 months and fuel stabilizer is virtually useless.

I guess this is true??? I have read much about it on line and also read that there is one stabilizer that works Star Tron ??? Is this true??
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Stihl BG 56

November 20, 2015, 5:27 pm
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Hello, new to this forum hope some one can help. I just bought a leaf blower shedder last week. Started using it today and was really careful not to suck up any branches. Well One got caught up in the turbine area. The machine automatically turned off. I took the blower/sucker tube off and cleaned out the blockage. I then put the machine back together and now can not get the machine to start. The pull cord will not allow me to pull in order to start the machine. Any suggestions?

Ed
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Husqvarna 223L spews out line

November 21, 2015, 7:37 am
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I have a Husqvarna 223L trimmer which served me well for several years. I eventually wore out the feeder head and replaced it with a head I bought at Tractor Supply. I think it was a T35 head, and it worked okay for year or two, then, if the end of the string hit a rock or something, it would spontaneously feed out line until it wrapped around the head.

I got a new T35 head at Tractor Supply and it shortly began doing the same thing, only worse. It does this with .085 Stihl line and with Echo .095 line. At this point, the trimmer is unusable. What do I need to do?
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Briggs and Stratton engine runs rough sputters after it gets warm

November 21, 2015, 12:06 pm
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I have cleaned carburetor, changed spark plug, got new gas, and changed flywheel key and adjusted magneto spacing. The engine runs cuts entire lawn but sputters instead of running smoothly. I also put stabil in gas.
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B&S 6.75 126M02-1031-F1 suddenly backfires, will not start

November 21, 2015, 1:22 pm
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In July, 2013, I replaced a blown B&S on my Toro SR 20055 with a Briggs and Stratton 126M02-1031-F1 190cc 6.75 Engine. Have not had a single problem, at all, until last weekend. I used it, let it sit for an hour or so, then tipped it slightly onto the side (gas tank was virtually empty) to scrape off some gunk that had built up on the kickers. Added gas. Went to start it back up, and nothing. Pulled a dozen or so times, and nothing. Not even a sputter. Then, bam ... sounded like a *very* loud gunshot. Not your average backfire. A dozen more pulls, and the same thing. Seems to be coming from the muffler, not the carb. I didn't hit anything. It hasn't been banged around. Already changed the plug a few months back. I can't understand why it would suddenly die like this after only being tipped on an angle?? I tried today, a week later, and the same thing. Even tried starter fluid. no luck.
I haven't checked the flywheel key yet. Any other recommendations? Sticky valve perhaps? Aside from ripping apart the engine, any way to remedy that?
Thanks in advance!!
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Ethenol problems

November 22, 2015, 6:18 am
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So regarding all of the small engine issues, both 2 & 4 cycle that are causing carborator,fuel problems, I was told to use only premium grade fuel

Is this true????
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Starting issues...got a weird one

November 22, 2015, 6:28 am
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Hi all,

I'm helping my friends get their Cub Cadet 1330 going. It was running when they bought it two weeks ago, but when they tried their first mow last week, it ran for 10 minutes, made a popping sound (it sounds like they mean backfired), and then wouldn't start. I went over, found badly deteriorated fuel lines and some minor rubber debris in the bowl. Well, when I say minor, I mean it was quite a few particles, but small in size, still easy to see, though. Anyway, I pulled the carb bowl, cleaned it out, checked the float, it's solid, checked and replaced the needle (I had one from a rebuild kit for the Walbro that wasn't used), and sprayed out the passages I could get to with the carb intact. Checked the spark plug - it's older, but in good shape, so cleaned and put back in. Oil was recently changed - still very clear.

I put it back together, charged the battery and after a few seconds she started and ran like she should. I ran it for a good half hour, mowed some, stopped, waited a minute or two, and started again. Did this three times, all was well. I packed up my tools (about 10 minutes or so), and thought I'd try one more time - now it takes a minute or two before it sounds like it wants to start, though it has strong turn-over. Once it starts, it runs great.

Update since yesterday: When it sat overnight, it started with almost no problem. Ran it for 10-15 minutes, let it sit for maybe 5-10, and hard starting again.
What am I looking at here? Should I break the carb down, remove all the foam and gaskets, and give it a good soak in Berryman's? It seems like it HAS to be a carb issue, but I'm no pro, so I'm asking you guys who are!

It's a Cub Cadet 1330, 12.5 hp Kohler. The mower is in absolutely grade A condition otherwise - no paint scrapes or chips, no rust, only the most minor deck rust, all original paint as far as I can tell. The only things wrong besides the starting issue is a missing headlight lens and the blades need a sharpening.

Any help?

Thanks,
Jack
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puh mowers

November 22, 2015, 8:09 am
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are all battery mowers push only?
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e start walk behind mowers

November 22, 2015, 8:12 am
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I would love to find a used ferris 32" but no luck. I need electric start and 36" or under would work. does any of the quality MFG's make one with E start?

Thanks
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Error code 8111.5 Raptor SD

November 22, 2015, 8:42 am
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I'm in the middle of leave cleanup and the mover died. When I tried to start it back up, it clicks, then the hour meter reads 8111.5. Any ideas what this error code could be? Input is greatly appreciated!
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Problem with surging

November 22, 2015, 9:16 am
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A buddy asked me to winterization his 06 John Deere x300 with a Kawasaki. I asked him to starting it to reach operation temperature. I noticed at slow rpms the engine was surging but fine at high rpms. So, I sprayed some seafoam in the air intake while at low rpms and the surging stopped but only while I was spraying. Once I stopped spraying the surging came back. I gave a few more quick burst of sea foam then sprayed until it stalled out. Let it hot soak for 10-15 minutes and restarted. After the white cleared the engine is now surging at all rpms. Did I or sea foam make matters worse. I read on here it might be a vacuum leak?
I then fogged the engine, changed the spark plugs, put in new air filter, changed the oil and filter and installed a new fuel filter. I did notice the plugs were out by.005-.007 inch. So I properly gapped the new plugs, sprayed fog oil in each cylinder and installed those. And the fuel filter was quite full of debris. Oh, I forgot to say that before I sprayed the sea foam we drained some oil out and put in marvel mystery oil and put in 3 oz of sea foam on the gas tank with 3 gallons of fresh gas.

Thanks,
Tom
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2 barrel Nikki flooding

November 22, 2015, 10:13 am
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I'm flooding gas in the carb; can see a puddle in the intake. I put a new needle in it and checked that the float does indeed float level in a container of water.

The float is plastic. I don't see anything in the manual for float adjustment.

I gravity feed from the gas tank, if that makes any difference. It's on a 20hp Vanguard.

Any suggestions to cure my problem?
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Starting issues...got a weird one

November 22, 2015, 1:03 pm
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(Cross-posting, just to make sure I hit all the bases!)

Hi all,

I'm helping my friends get their Cub Cadet 1330 going. It was running when they bought it two weeks ago, but when they tried their first mow last week, it ran for 10 minutes, made a popping sound (it sounds like they mean backfired), and then wouldn't start. I went over, found badly deteriorated fuel lines and some minor rubber debris in the bowl. Well, when I say minor, I mean it was quite a few particles, but small in size, still easy to see, though. Anyway, I pulled the carb bowl, cleaned it out, checked the float, it's solid, checked and replaced the needle (I had one from a rebuild kit for the Walbro that wasn't used), and sprayed out the passages I could get to with the carb intact. Checked the spark plug - it's older, but in good shape, so cleaned and put back in. Oil was recently changed - still very clear.

I put it back together, charged the battery and after a few seconds she started and ran like she should. I ran it for a good half hour, mowed some, stopped, waited a minute or two, and started again. Did this three times, all was well. I packed up my tools (about 10 minutes or so), and thought I'd try one more time - now it takes a minute or two before it sounds like it wants to start, though it has strong turn-over. Once it starts, it runs great.

Update since yesterday: When it sat overnight, it started with almost no problem. Ran it for 10-15 minutes, let it sit for maybe 5-10, and hard starting again.

What am I looking at here? Should I break the carb down, remove all the foam and gaskets, and give it a good soak in Berryman's? It seems like it HAS to be a carb issue, but I'm no pro, so I'm asking you guys who are!

It's a Cub Cadet 1330, 12.5 hp Kohler. The mower is in absolutely grade A condition otherwise - no paint scrapes or chips, no rust, only the most minor deck rust, all original paint as far as I can tell. The only things wrong besides the starting issue is a missing headlight lens and the blades need a sharpening.
Any help?

Thanks,
Jack
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Need help and advice with buying a lawn mower

November 22, 2015, 2:02 pm
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Hello everyone,

I am brand new to these boards seeking a lawn mower purchase. We own a 1/2 acre lot and I am tired of mowing that with my small electric Black and Decker mower. I am approaching 50 and I have to take two days to mow the entire yard with that little mower, although it has lasted my 15 years, I feel it is time to make a switch. We don稚 have the money for a Riding mower.

Our yard is relatively flat with little to no hills, just a few small humps here and there - nothing major. My main issue with using our electric lawn mower is having to worry about the cord and that takes me longer than I really want to spend mowing the yard. I thought about Push Mower (Gas of course) with no self-propelled, but I have read that these mowers typically are no longer made using the best parts. The Self-Propelled mowers I have read have more parts that can potentially break. In short, I need some help and advice. I want to be able to mow the entire lawn the same day :)

I have so many choices with the top two are not self-propelled, but I am not sure how much they weigh or if they are easy enough to push around the entire yard. The rest are all Self-Propelled. All my wife wants from me is to get a mower I can use to mow the entire lawn the same day :) I知 not 100% certain I can do that with the top two.

I would like a lawn mower that will last a good long while. Looks like I narrowed my choices down to four Troy-Bilt, three Husqvarna, and one Poulan. Does anyone have any insights on these mowers? Are the good solid mowers that last? Is it really that much easier using a Self-Propelled instead of a push mower since the Self-Propelled are more expensive?


Troy-Bilt TB130 - $256 - push Mower with no self-propelled. How much does it weigh?
160 CC with Honda Engine
Shop Troy-Bilt TB130 160cc 21-in 3-in-1 Gas Push Lawn Mower with Honda Engine and Mulching Capability at Lowes.com

Husqvarna LC121P - $249 push mower with no self-propelled.
163CC with Briggs and Stratton
Shop Husqvarna LC121P 163cc 21-in 3-in-1 Gas Push Lawn Mower with Mulching Capability at Lowes.com

Troy-Bilt TB200 - $269 - Self-Propelled
150CC with Briggs and Stratton
Shop Troy-Bilt TB200 150cc 21-in Self-Propelled Front Wheel Drive 3-in-1 Gas Push Lawn Mower with Briggs & Stratton Engine and Mulching Capability at Lowes.com

Troy-Bilt TB240 - $329 Self-Propelled
160CC with Honda Engine
Shop Troy-Bilt TB240 160cc 21-in Self-Propelled Front Wheel Drive 3-in-1 Gas Push Lawn Mower with Honda Engine and Mulching Capable at Lowes.com

Troy-Bilt TB230 - $299 Self-Propelled
163CC with Briggs and Stratton
Shop Troy-Bilt TB230 163cc 21-in Self-Propelled Front Wheel Drive 3-in-1 Gas Push Lawn Mower with Briggs & Stratton Engine and Mulching Capable at Lowes.com

Husqvarna LC221A - $339 Self-Propelled
150CC with Briggs and Stratton
http://www.lowes.com/pd_757528-63311...999956450&pl=1

Husqvarna - $329 - Self-Propelled
160CC with Honda Engine
http://www.lowes.com/pd_421864-63311...d=4346377&pl=1

Poulan PRO - $269 - Self-Propelled
150CC with 625 Series Briggs and Stratton
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Poulan-PR...0127/205867710
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Ryobi 725R hard to pull starter cord

November 22, 2015, 4:41 pm
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Grassbandit , I can't read your PM so I will ask about the difficult pull start of Ryobi 725 R. I guess this is a 2 stroke. There were a couple good threads a ways back concerning 2 strokes. As I recall carbon build up at the exh port can be a problem. Bandit's problem is relieved when the spark plug is out . How bout it guys? I also have a Husky chainsaw with the same problem. Runs well when started. The compression release pin will set and reset , but I just wonder if is its really working
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Craftsman DYT4000 18.5 HP

November 23, 2015, 5:38 am
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ok hope someone can help here you go, I was cutting grass my mower back fired cut off I tried starting it and it would only turn over. So me friend told me to adjust the vales I did this and it started right up ran on choke but as soon as I pulled it off choke it cuts off.
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Craftsman DYT4000

November 23, 2015, 5:53 am
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HELP,,,,,,was cutting grass and the mower backfired cut off tried to restart and it would only turn over,,adjusted the vales and it will run on choke as soon as I pull it off choke it cuts off
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48" mower deck on LX188 - Bearing and Seal issue

November 23, 2015, 8:16 am
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Dear all,

my 98 LX188 has a 48" mower deck with badly damaged bearings. After disassembly i found out that the bearings used are of type 6204 (open type). The bearing housing is normally sealed with shaft seals on the top and bottom. The bearings are easy to get and cost only few Euros on the aftermarket. With the seals however, it's a bit more tricky. I contacted my local JD dealer for pricing of those. Result: For the price of one I can get all six ball bearings including shipping.
So my question is: Can't I just use closed-end-bearings (Type: 6204-2RS) instead of the open type and forget about the seals in the bearing housing? Those bearings have a lifetime fill of grease and are protected against splash water and dirt.

Has anyone ever tried this? Did it work?

Thanks in advance!

Carsten from North-Germany
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John Deere Mower Deck - Hot dip galvanized housing?

November 23, 2015, 11:47 pm
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Hi again,

my 48" mower deck is currently beeing sandblasted (it was sure needing it... see pic). There is some welding work to do on the deflectors and I thought I'd give it a thorough cleaning before I start. When this is done the normal way would be to apply corrosion inhibitor (primer) and a top layer(s) of nice JD-Yellow (RAL 1018). The guy from the sandblasting company however gave me the idea to have it hot-dip galvanized instead of using a primer.
This would of course stop corrosion once and for all but wouldn't the heat cause deformations in the housing?
If anyone of you guys has experience with this topic (hot-dip galvanizing of sheet metal parts) please let me know...

Thanks in advance...

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