anyone have experience with an Ariens yt 11 lawn tractor?
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ariens yt11
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greetings
Hio all - just joined this forum. Hoping to connect, particularly, with anyone with knowledge of Rover Ranchers . . .
Thanks to the administrator for keeping such a site up . .
cheers,
j-j
Thanks to the administrator for keeping such a site up . .
cheers,
j-j
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Powr Kraft 18 hp 42 inch cut
I am having problems with my mower. I have to jump it across the solenoid to start it. This is not a big deal. The problem is that the battery does not stay up enough to start it, I put a new battery and cables on it last month. It started okay for a few weeks but now barely turns and won't start due to this. I try jump starting it and still the same problem. Is there another way I can get it to start by bypassing the battery and jumping it off? I am going to exchange the battery again tomorrow. This will be the third battery over since the end of March. I have had it on a trickle charge overnight but still not enough battery to start it. the trickle charger light continues to show that it is charging. In previous weeks it has charged and the light has gone off and I could start it.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. There is a thin black wire that has come off of somewhere, over the last weeks, so I can no longer use the key switch to start it. I pulled the ignition switch and found all wires in that harness to be okay. Being an old mower, I don't mind jumping off of the solenoid now. I have tried hooking up jumper cables directly to the red and black battery cables, unattached from the battery, but still don't get enough power to start the mower, just a slow turn.
Thanks!
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. There is a thin black wire that has come off of somewhere, over the last weeks, so I can no longer use the key switch to start it. I pulled the ignition switch and found all wires in that harness to be okay. Being an old mower, I don't mind jumping off of the solenoid now. I have tried hooking up jumper cables directly to the red and black battery cables, unattached from the battery, but still don't get enough power to start the mower, just a slow turn.
Thanks!
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kohler 17 h.p pro
I bought a used craftman with a kohler pro hydraulic valves.its turning over really hard when I start it and was hoping the valves could be adjusted but I took the valve cover off and theres no adjustment.when I turned the motor over by hand there is no gap in the valves at all.can someone tell me whats going on.i have a new battery and briggs if this happens you adjust the valves.is my starter shot
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Gravely Pro-Turn vs ZTHD vs Cub Z-Force LZ 60
These are all 60 inch mowers and Im down to these three
I can get the Gravely Pro Turn Model 991203 with a 25HP Briggs motor for $5999
The Gravely ZTHD 99110 with a 26 HP Kohler for $5199
and Finally the Z force LZ Commercial for $5999
I really like all three and it was down to just the ZTHD and the Zforce but the Gravely Dealer offered to drop the Pro Turn from 6400 to $5999 to match the Cub Cadet Pricing. To me the Cub seemed the most Stout and had the most Features such as a small Hitch that I would only pull a lawn cart with, Suspenstion style seat and easier to adjust Lap Bars. It also was a 22 inch rear tire which the Proturn also had.
The Pro Turn also seemed extremely stout but had less features and a comfortable seat but not a true suspension. It has seats mounted on a typed of urethane and/or rubber bushing
Lastly is the ZTHD. This was my first consideration based on price only. The dealer said it was a kind of a Hybrid between a residential and Commercial type mower that I could Expect 15 years out of. It was his first recommendation and what he thought would work best. The con is it did have the same Seat as the other gravely but it was a direct bolt with no bushings. It also didn't seem quite as stought as the other two.
Now my yard is a 3 acre plot minus the house. I also have about 5 large trees in my front third of the yard and a bunch of small maples and Evergreens that form the perimeter around my home that must be mowed around. Also planted a few small fruit trees. The back third of the yard used to be a field so its not all grass but is a mix of weeds, clover and grass that Im slowly killing off and replaninting with just grass. Sometimes it grows in super thick and is tough even at shorter heights.
What Im most concerned with is Durability and longevity and mowing speed. It currently takes me 4 hours +/- (usually plus) with my old schoold Cub 154 mower which turns and rides like a log wagon. What choices would you guys go with and how Is a Modern Cub vs a Gravely? I know very little about modern lawnmowers and small engine equipment.
Thank you@@
I can get the Gravely Pro Turn Model 991203 with a 25HP Briggs motor for $5999
The Gravely ZTHD 99110 with a 26 HP Kohler for $5199
and Finally the Z force LZ Commercial for $5999
I really like all three and it was down to just the ZTHD and the Zforce but the Gravely Dealer offered to drop the Pro Turn from 6400 to $5999 to match the Cub Cadet Pricing. To me the Cub seemed the most Stout and had the most Features such as a small Hitch that I would only pull a lawn cart with, Suspenstion style seat and easier to adjust Lap Bars. It also was a 22 inch rear tire which the Proturn also had.
The Pro Turn also seemed extremely stout but had less features and a comfortable seat but not a true suspension. It has seats mounted on a typed of urethane and/or rubber bushing
Lastly is the ZTHD. This was my first consideration based on price only. The dealer said it was a kind of a Hybrid between a residential and Commercial type mower that I could Expect 15 years out of. It was his first recommendation and what he thought would work best. The con is it did have the same Seat as the other gravely but it was a direct bolt with no bushings. It also didn't seem quite as stought as the other two.
Now my yard is a 3 acre plot minus the house. I also have about 5 large trees in my front third of the yard and a bunch of small maples and Evergreens that form the perimeter around my home that must be mowed around. Also planted a few small fruit trees. The back third of the yard used to be a field so its not all grass but is a mix of weeds, clover and grass that Im slowly killing off and replaninting with just grass. Sometimes it grows in super thick and is tough even at shorter heights.
What Im most concerned with is Durability and longevity and mowing speed. It currently takes me 4 hours +/- (usually plus) with my old schoold Cub 154 mower which turns and rides like a log wagon. What choices would you guys go with and how Is a Modern Cub vs a Gravely? I know very little about modern lawnmowers and small engine equipment.
Thank you@@
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2011 Craftsman 21hp 540cc Platinum XRD Briggs and Stratton OHV engine
I have a 2011 Craftsman 42" rider with a 21hp 540cc Platinum XRD Briggs and Stratton OHV engine. Five minutes after starting mowing with it, I got off to move something out of the way. While I was off the mower, it started running very rough. I turned it off. It wouldn't start again. The next night, I replaced the spark plug. It started but continued running very rough and backfiring. I then drained the gas (even though it was only about 10 days old) and replaced it with fresh. When I started it, it continued running rough and backfiring and the exhaust was nearly black. I let it run thinking it still had some "old" gas in the lines. No luck. After a few minutes, I shut it off. It would not start again. I pulled the plug. It is completely fouled. Any ideas of what has malfunctioned?
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Hydro oil advise.
I have a 2014 tiger cat STC52V-22FX with 83hrs. The cap came off the hydro oil the other day while mowing I found the cap lying next to the engine. Oils is below filler tube. Manual says to fill with 20w50 motor oil 3" 1/4 from top of filler tube. I don't know when cap came off and I cant see anything in the oil but I mow under some cedar, pine, and oak low limbs. Do I drain it and refill it, ya think. 20w50 motor oil? what do you suggest (brand) I use Shell Rotella T in 10w30 in my motor with Wix filter but Shell Rotella doesnt make a 20w50. You know I'm like everyone else I want this to last 1500-2000 hrs. Wore me out deciding on motor oil to use and I thought I'd have some time on the hydro oil but here I am. Another thing, do I go 400hrs before change hydro oil like the manual says or change more frequent. 80 hrs is a full years mowing for me. Help me I'm worn out.
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kawasaki engine problem
I have a 20 hp kaw air cooled v twin on a JD GX335 landg tractor. Runs fine for about an hour then starts to die unless you fully choke it and hold it there. After it sets for about an hour and after it cools down it will crank and run for another hour or so. Any suggetions are appreciated.
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Hydro Oil Hot
I have a 2014 Scag Tiger Cat with 61" deck and 23.5 hp Kawasaki. I noticed that the hydraulic oil is really hot after a two hours of using the machine too hot to keep your hand on there for any amount of time. Is this normal? Today while at work I saw a older Tiger Cat/Cub that had a cooler mounted to a bracket that sat over the engine. Anyone put a cooler on there Tiger Cat?
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LB 10515 Craig's List Find :)
:smile:
Craig's List find in Atlanta..
It's smokes a lot more than my 580540..
Is their anything I should look at to fix this or is it normal?
Only negatives are a bad back wheel and both tiny hub caps for back wheels are missing..
The new to me the 10515 was "One Benjamin" :smile: :smile: :smile:
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The whole 10515 was double what I have into a used 10515 deck I'm refurbishing and planning on putting my 680560 motor and other parts onto..
680540 I bought new in 92'-93'
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The 10515 it smokes more than my lightly used 680540
Help about smoking issue would be appreciated..
Thanks Y'all for the friendship and comradely,
RB
Craig's List find in Atlanta..
It's smokes a lot more than my 580540..
Is their anything I should look at to fix this or is it normal?
Only negatives are a bad back wheel and both tiny hub caps for back wheels are missing..
The new to me the 10515 was "One Benjamin" :smile: :smile: :smile:
The whole 10515 was double what I have into a used 10515 deck I'm refurbishing and planning on putting my 680560 motor and other parts onto..
680540 I bought new in 92'-93'
The 10515 it smokes more than my lightly used 680540
Help about smoking issue would be appreciated..
Thanks Y'all for the friendship and comradely,
RB
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Troy Bilt Junior Tiller Question
Hey Guys
I am wanting to repower my old 3.5 HP Tecumseh engine and was thinking about replacing it with one of the Predator 3 HP engines that Harbor Freight sales. Has anyone on here used these engines and can anyone tell me if it will bolt right up?. The mounting plate spacing appears to be 6.5 inches across and the shaft length is 2 1/4 inches with what appears to be a 3/4" shaft. This tiller has a crank pulley, one pulley on I guess is the can shaft and an idler pulley that mounts to a bracket that mounts to the crankcase. The HF specs on their website are of little help. Also, if it will fit, will the 3 HP (79cc) model be underpowered?
Thanks in advance for your help. Oh also, I am replacing a Tecumseh H 35 Series engine that is no telling how old.
I am wanting to repower my old 3.5 HP Tecumseh engine and was thinking about replacing it with one of the Predator 3 HP engines that Harbor Freight sales. Has anyone on here used these engines and can anyone tell me if it will bolt right up?. The mounting plate spacing appears to be 6.5 inches across and the shaft length is 2 1/4 inches with what appears to be a 3/4" shaft. This tiller has a crank pulley, one pulley on I guess is the can shaft and an idler pulley that mounts to a bracket that mounts to the crankcase. The HF specs on their website are of little help. Also, if it will fit, will the 3 HP (79cc) model be underpowered?
Thanks in advance for your help. Oh also, I am replacing a Tecumseh H 35 Series engine that is no telling how old.
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Change transmission cable Gravely mower
Hi,
I'm trying to replace a gravely mower (MDL 911174) transmission cable. It appears that you need to loosen torx screws on the top of the transmission so as to have enough of a gap between the pulley and the top of the housing on the transmission. I can't figure out how to do so without pulling the rear axle. I was wondering if there some secret. The owner's manual refers to removing hardware. I thought running a torx down through the deck at a 45 degree angle would let me remove a screw holding down one side but couldnt get that to seat. Removing the rear axle seems extreme. Hoping someone has a tip on how to do this.
thanks, mm
I'm trying to replace a gravely mower (MDL 911174) transmission cable. It appears that you need to loosen torx screws on the top of the transmission so as to have enough of a gap between the pulley and the top of the housing on the transmission. I can't figure out how to do so without pulling the rear axle. I was wondering if there some secret. The owner's manual refers to removing hardware. I thought running a torx down through the deck at a 45 degree angle would let me remove a screw holding down one side but couldnt get that to seat. Removing the rear axle seems extreme. Hoping someone has a tip on how to do this.
thanks, mm
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rear axle
I have a older craftsman lawn tractor model #917 254 850,trying to remove rear wheel the axle came out with it. what needs to be done to reinsert axle and secure it?
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Cylinder honing for new rings
I will use a flex hone on my GXV120 to break the glaze.
-Seems the cylinder is lined but with what, cast iron, or Nikasil?
-Which grit does Honda recommend (120, 240, 320...)?
Thanks, Kevin
-Seems the cylinder is lined but with what, cast iron, or Nikasil?
-Which grit does Honda recommend (120, 240, 320...)?
Thanks, Kevin
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Need help fixing nearly new mower
I just got this Briggs and Stratton 725ex - Troy Bilt mower and it does not start. I have cleaned out the carburetor, installed a new spark plug, changed the oil, put new gas in it and cleaned off the magneto. I have made sure that the spark plug is getting a good spark. I don't know what else to do. I would appreciate any advice.
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Need pin that engages gear
I have a Silent Scotts - decades old. When sharpening blades myself for the first time, I lost the pin that holds in one of the gears. Anyone know where to locate a replacement?
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
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Need info on RIOS
I'm trying to bypass the rios on my X310. Can someone help with info how to do it?
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mower cuts out
Have a toro wheelhorse 312-8 and it will start fine and partway through mowing it will cut out and not start could it be the points and if so where are they ?
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tim
720 K grasshopper that turns over but wont start , has weak spark. seat safety switch ok control lever switch's ok and park brake switch ok. How do u put in neutral to push?
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HRA214 metal noise when engaging blades
Hello,
This is my first post. If I do mistakes, please apologize me for that. I've been doing a lot of research to find answers to my mower problem, but didn't succeed yet. Tried the search option but didn't find what I was looking for, so there it is.
I have a Honda HRA214 that I bought in 2000. ( it came with our house :smile: ) It always runned very well and still is. But this is the problem. When I start the engine, everything's fine. If the engine is still cold a bit and I engage the blade for the first time when I begin mowing, everything's still fine. When the engine is normal hot, maybe after 3-4 minutes of mowing, if I stop the blade for any reason, when I re-engage the blade, The mower shakes, and make several ''klonking'' noise for a few seconds and then everything goes back to normal until I release the blade and have to re-engage it again. It doesn't make any difference if I turn off the engine or not. If it is still hot, everytime I re-engage the blade, it will do this.
My concern is that it's getting worst after each time I use it. Now I'm afraid to use it and permanently damage something, like the engine for exemple. It's sometime difficult to explain a precise problem like this so, I made a short video on youtube for you to watch and hear it. Hope it helps me solve this thing before it's too late. My lawn is getting looooong.... :ashamed:
The link to the video is : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxRU...r#action=share
Just copy and paste the link in your browser, I guess. Hope it works.
Before sending this post, I checked everything I could possibly check to find the problem by myself but, no success. So here is the small list of what I've done:
1- Oil level_____ checked
2- Air filter_____ Cleaned and checked
3- Blade bolt____checked. Well tightened.
4- Blade area____ checked and cleaned. There is no dried and old grass there anymore.
5- Spark plug____ Checked. cleaned and gap checked. was ok.
6- valve clearance____ checked. That was a little tricky. It was my first time. I removed the cylinder head cover, engine cold. Checked the clearance and the inlet (first one up...) valve value was 0.08 mm and the exhaust valve was 0.013 mm (the one under the first one). There was engine oil all around the bottom of this area. Don't know if this is normal but I guess yes..) The manual shop tells me that the value should be this:
valve clearance.jpg
Hope somebody can help me with that. Thanks !
This is my first post. If I do mistakes, please apologize me for that. I've been doing a lot of research to find answers to my mower problem, but didn't succeed yet. Tried the search option but didn't find what I was looking for, so there it is.
I have a Honda HRA214 that I bought in 2000. ( it came with our house :smile: ) It always runned very well and still is. But this is the problem. When I start the engine, everything's fine. If the engine is still cold a bit and I engage the blade for the first time when I begin mowing, everything's still fine. When the engine is normal hot, maybe after 3-4 minutes of mowing, if I stop the blade for any reason, when I re-engage the blade, The mower shakes, and make several ''klonking'' noise for a few seconds and then everything goes back to normal until I release the blade and have to re-engage it again. It doesn't make any difference if I turn off the engine or not. If it is still hot, everytime I re-engage the blade, it will do this.
My concern is that it's getting worst after each time I use it. Now I'm afraid to use it and permanently damage something, like the engine for exemple. It's sometime difficult to explain a precise problem like this so, I made a short video on youtube for you to watch and hear it. Hope it helps me solve this thing before it's too late. My lawn is getting looooong.... :ashamed:
The link to the video is : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxRU...r#action=share
Just copy and paste the link in your browser, I guess. Hope it works.
Before sending this post, I checked everything I could possibly check to find the problem by myself but, no success. So here is the small list of what I've done:
1- Oil level_____ checked
2- Air filter_____ Cleaned and checked
3- Blade bolt____checked. Well tightened.
4- Blade area____ checked and cleaned. There is no dried and old grass there anymore.
5- Spark plug____ Checked. cleaned and gap checked. was ok.
6- valve clearance____ checked. That was a little tricky. It was my first time. I removed the cylinder head cover, engine cold. Checked the clearance and the inlet (first one up...) valve value was 0.08 mm and the exhaust valve was 0.013 mm (the one under the first one). There was engine oil all around the bottom of this area. Don't know if this is normal but I guess yes..) The manual shop tells me that the value should be this:
valve clearance.jpg
Hope somebody can help me with that. Thanks !
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